Aubazine Abbey, a jewel of medieval Cistercian heritage nestled in the heart of Corrèze (Nouvelle-Aquitaine region), is about to be restored to its original splendor. The famous Chanel fashion house, renowned for its timeless elegance, recently pledged to finance a major part of the restoration of this historic 12th-century monument. 

This gesture has deep symbolic significance, as the history of the abbey is intimately linked to that of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who is said to have spent part of her childhood there.

A timeless witness to the golden age of the Middle Ages, with its austere stone walls and the light filtering through its ancient stained-glass, the monument is now run by nuns of the Melkite Greek Catholic Church, the last Melkite nuns in Europe.

 

Chanel and Aubazine

The nature of the historical links between Aubazine and the Parisian fashion icon remain shrouded in mystery. Many biographies claim that Chanel was sent to the orphanage sheltered by the abbey at the age of 12, after the death of her mother in 1895, and that it was there that she learned to sew. 

There is no definitive proof of this story to date, but several clues suggest a deep connection between Chanel and Aubazine, as Cyril Lecointe, curator of the abbey, told the Register: “She certainly knew the abbey very well. When she built her second home, the Villa La Pausa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, she asked the architect to use emblematic architectural elements of Aubazine.

Chanel had the dormitory staircase leading to the abbey’s church recreated in the entrance hall of her villa, faithfully maintaining its distinctive broken angle. She also had a cloister built, inspired by the abbey’s columns. Furthermore, when furnishing La Pausa, she acquired two antique cabinets, which she had joined together to resemble an iconic 12th-century armoire still present at Aubazine.

In the rare personal accounts of her childhood found in her biographies, Chanel described an austere environment, marked by silence and strict discipline — all elements supporting the theory of her years spent in the Cistercian monastery.

The geometric motifs of Aubazine’s stained-glass windows, in particular the intertwined lines and crosses, reappear in Chanel’s iconic creations. In particular, some believe that the famous interlocking double-C Chanel logo was inspired by the motifs of the abbey’s stained-glass windows. It’s a compelling hypothesis, but one that Lecointe addresses with nuance: “I think it's a symbol that she encountered several times in her life, including in Aubazine. It certainly left its mark on her, and she may have unconsciously incorporated it into her logo,” he said.

Chanel’s signature monochrome palette — the brand’s emblematic black and white — also seems to echo the visual simplicity of monastic habits. Could it be that the designer’s iconic, timeless “little black dress” found its roots in these austere influences?

The No. 5, a symbol of balance and perfection in Christian tradition, was omnipresent at Aubazine, appearing frequently in the monastery’s geometric motifs. This may also have left a lasting impression on Chanel, who later made it a key element of her brand, most notably with her legendary perfume.

Whether she actually lived there or not, the aesthetic and spiritual imprint of Aubazine on Chanel’s work is undeniable. Her preference for clean lines, minimalism and the rejection of excess resonates deeply with the Cistercian architecture of the monastery.

Rescuing an Endangered Heritage 

But time has left its mark on the abbey, which requires a thorough renovation every 150 years to ensure its preservation. The stone walls, stained glass and wooden framework have suffered the ravages of time. In some areas, the roof is at risk of collapsing, and moisture threatens the foundations. 

Given the urgency of the situation, the House of Chanel, which has maintained a close relationship with the abbey over the decades, decided to intervene, recognizing the site’s historical value and its intimate link to the brand’s founder.

The restoration project will focus on strengthening the structures and preserving the original Cistercian elements, according to Lecointe. Chanel has funded the vast majority of the work, which will amount to several million euros. The renovations are set to begin this autumn and are expected to continue over the next five years. 

“The House has communicated very little about this,” Lecointe said. “This is less about publicity and more about preserving a heritage to which Gabrielle Chanel was deeply connected.”

The Last Melkite Nuns in Europe

Aubazine’s modern history began in the 19th century when a wealthy heiress purchased the abbey and decided to turn it into an orphanage. She entrusted this mission to the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Mary, known for their gentleness and maternal care. The orphanage remained active until the 1960s, after which the site was passed on to a community of Melkite nuns that follow the Byzantine Rite.

The last two remaining nuns, who continue to safeguard a centuries-old monastic heritage, are also the last Melkite sisters in Europe. Now aged 78 and 92, they reside in a small monastery of Greek architectural style about 330 feet from the abbey, as the historic monument itself is no longer habitable. They occasionally welcome visitors — around 8,000 per year — but their primary focus remains prayer and contemplation.

Outside of visiting hours, another resident keeps watch over the site: a ginger cat named Chachanel, an obvious nod to the founder of the fashion house (a play on the French word for “cat,” chat). A guardian and mascot of the abbey, the little feline roams the cloister’s stones and seems to have adopted the monastery’s tranquil rhythm. “He owns the place,” joked the abbey’s curator.

The story of Aubazine Abbey and Coco Chanel is woven with mystery and profound echoes. This discreet yet decisive restoration effort will ensure the preservation of a heritage and culture that have contributed to Europe’s lasting influence over the centuries. And in the silence of the Cistercian stones, under the watchful gaze of Chachanel, Chanel’s memory will continue to permeate the walls.